Restoring

One of the more common issues on the 1983-88 Cougar and Thunderbird is faded or curled beltline molding. We hate to say it but this has pretty much been an issue from the cars’ introduction and time has not been kind to it. Fortunately there are some solutions for you, even if you feel the condition of yours is bad. Over the years we’ve seen some DIY-type fixes that were, well, less than professional. In this section we’ll explore the molding types on your car and how to properly repair and maintain them.

1983-86

In general, these moldings were the same thickness from top to bottom. The very top of the molding was dedicated to a chrome strip that was protected by a thin clear plastic layer. The bottom of the molding was then painted in a unique dark grey color that was specific to the Cougar/T-Bird. All side pieces were made from vinyl. The bumpers were urethane.

BUMPERS (FRONT AND REAR)

The bumper molding for your car (front and back) is formed into the bumper cover itself; it is not removable or replaceable. If the paint on the molding is faded or you see the yellow bumper cover material showing through, then it just needs a simple repaint—see Refinishing below.

The chrome strip—technically called a “rub strip”—is replaceable, however. Finding correct NOS rub strips is pretty much futile at this point, but there is an excellent substitute for them. Under the Sherman Brand, p/n 547-354, is a universal rub strip meant for a mid-1990s Grand Marquis. It is an identical profile and fit for our cars, both front and rear. The only caveat is that the pre-applied double-stick tape is actually on the wrong part of the rub strip. You may have to remove it and reapply using a good (3M) double-sided tape. And it’s missing the factory-style metal clips, which you really don’t need. But that’s it…otherwise it is 100% the same as what we had from the factory. We’ve seen it applied in person and it’s perfect. So this should be considered a permanent solution. You can find it on eBay, Summit Racing, or possibly Rock Auto.

Thanks to Matt for the info.

SIDE MOLDINGS (ALL)

All of the side moldings used on these cars were applied with double-sided tape from the factory. On the back of the molding was an aluminum strip, and that’s where the tape was applied. This aluminum strip kept the molding flat and also prevented it from expanding and contracting with the elements. But we’ll be honest: even from the factory the molding started to curl up in places. We know original owners who have cars with curled molding since back in the 1980s. So this isn’t a new issue but it is something that everyone likely deals with at some point. (And please don’t put a screw through the molding and into the sheetmetal to hold the molding on. That’s just wrong on so many levels).

To make things worse, a majority of cars had a chrome accent piece on the top of the side moldings. Even though there was a clear factory protective layer applied on top of the chrome, the sun’s UV rays eventually breaks down the chrome into powder, and fading is quite common. Unlike the bumpers, however, this chrome piece was not replaceable. So even if your molding is somehow not curling on the ends, it’s possible that your chrome has disintegrated, which leaves you still in need of replacement molding.

We hate to say this but all of the side moldings are getting increasingly difficult to find new, or even used. If you do find good used pieces, you have about a 50% chance of having good aluminum strips still attached, and about a 100% chance that you’ll have to painstakingly scrape the old adhesive off said aluminum strips. No other cars shared our molding, and no aftermarket replacements have been made.

That being said, we are big proponents of reusing your existing molding if at all possible. The grey part is usually pretty easy: repainting is simple enough, even if you have to use a little flexible bumper filler. For shorter pieces you can technically reapply them without the aluminum strip(s). It then just becomes an issue of how to fix the chrome situation.

And therein lies the problem. Despite the different 3/4″ chrome accent tapes out there, we have never found a perfect one. The tape likes to peel off or come loose, and around curves it tends to pucker or bunch up. Even if, somehow, you get it to lay flat, the chrome is still going to fade under UV rays and weathering. A lot of people give up and paint the old ones. We don’t know of any flexible chrome paint that would work. So it’s usually silver paint for the solution (or body color, or the same dark grey as the molding, or even a completely different color altogether).

We wish there was better news for the chrome strip because all other parts of the molding can usually be salvaged. For handling the chrome strip situation, it’s really your call as to what will look best. But we will say that chrome tape is still more uniform than anything else. Using a heat gun to gently melt the edges will help give it better adhesion and a smoother overall look (be careful not to burn it though).

FRONT FENDER SIDE MOLDINGS, WIDE

This molding is found between the front bumper and the front wheelwell. There were two kinds: a solid molding, and one with a cutout for the cornering lamp. A solid molding can work on a fender meant for a cornering lamp, if you’ve had your fender replaced that way. There are two aluminum strips on these moldings, one on the top and one on the bottom.

REAR QUARTER SIDE MOLDINGS, WIDE

This molding is found between the rear bumper and rear wheelwell. There are no variants. Same as the front, there are two aluminum strips per piece.

DOOR SIDE MOLDINGS, THIN

Ford used thinner door side moldings on most Cougars, whereas the majority of Thunderbirds had the same size moldings as the rest of the car. We still have never found the exact reason why the Cougar got the skinny moldings, but needless to say they’re tougher to find. There are six pieces total, three per side, between the front and rear wheelwells. There was only one aluminum strip per piece. We have never found any variations on them so they’re the same from 1983-86.

DOOR SIDE MOLDINGS, THICK

Other than the aforementioned Thunderbirds, the only Cougar models to get wide side moldings were the 1984-86 XR-7s and the regional 1985-86 Cougar RS. All of the thicker moldings had chrome accents at the top; none were painted or molded in red, like the Turbo Coupes. The 1985-86 XR-7 models had front fender molding with the “XR-7” insert and they’re considered pretty rare. Otherwise the door and side rear moldings were just like those used on non-turbo Thunderbird models. Each piece used two aluminum strips.

Be aware that there are variants of these moldings. Some earlier Thunderbird models had two indented “stripes” in the molding itself that made them look ribbed. All six pieces (3 driver side, 3 passenger side) had the ribs. Those moldings were never used on a Cougar.

REPAIRING

Sometimes you can get lucky and repair a curling piece of molding. Virgil writes: “I noticed some time ago that my trim was flaring out at the edges and asked several people how to fix this. I didn’t get too many good ideas. Then, I saw how paint shops use a strong glue to affix certain chrome, etc. I waited for a hot day (80º F+). This particular spot needs a C-clamp that is large, which I don’t have. So I propped  up some studs as you see in photo #2. I used Locktite glue, but I suppose there are many good glues out there. I put the glue in place (I wasn’t stingy) and let it set overnight. This morning the trim was back in place, photo #3.  We’ll see if the weather, rain etc., will cause it to separate again … but for now, it looks better. I got so excited because something I tried actually worked. I’ll finish gluing and clamping all the other edges this away.”

We have to say, Virgil’s method seems to be a pretty good solution, at least in the short-to-medium term. A large C-clamp would definitely help out with a situation such as we have with curled molding. This method sure beats removal and messing with the aluminum backing, not to mention the double-sided adhesive, that is for certain.

REFINISHING

For all of the above, the correct way to refinish the molding on 1983-86 cars is by repainting. Ford used a unique dark grey paint on our molding and it is not shared by any other Ford vehicle to the best of our knowledge (the Mustang/Capri is close but no cigar). We have tried to match it as closely as possible to NOS factory pieces using common aftermarket spray paint as well as automotive paint. After much debate on the message board and experimentation, this is what we can definitively say is the best color match:

As always, the finished product will be a direct result of your prep work. If your bumpers or molding has a deep gouge or nicks/scratches, you can use a flexible urethane filler to take care of those areas. We’ve used a two-part filler commonly found in parts stores and it seems to work well enough for the money. It takes patience and multiple fills, but the end result can be very good. Be sure to do these areas first before any primer/paint is applied.

To paint the bumpers (and even the molding while it’s on the car), you’ll just need good masking tape, newspaper to cover up areas you don’t want painted, and red Scotch-Brite scuffing pads (the green are too fine and won’t let the paint bite in enough). The good news is that you can use your factory paint as a sort of primer; there is no need to totally sand it off. Prep work should only take a few hours, and remember to remove all sanding dust before painting. We’d recommend a light topcoat of grey or black flexible primer before applying the paint.

The SEM spray paint is lacquer and is flexible. For the PPG/DuPont paint, you will need to make sure it’s mixed as flexible paint. The finish should be satin and there is no topcoat necessary. This is one-shot paint with the finish pre-applied; it will not require additional sanding once dry. Basically, spray the paint, let dry, remove tape, and enjoy. We love the idea that you can do this on a good day one weekend, outside if you wish, and there’s not much worry about anything falling or blowing into the paint since it dries so quickly.

1987-88

When Ford redesigned the Cougar/Thunderbird for 1987, one of the areas that got a revision was with the molding. It is not the same as earlier cars, and in fact more closely resembles molding from the Taurus/Sable program in that respect. The chrome strip was moved more toward the middle of each piece, which better protects it from sun fade. The door molding between the front and back was now wide on the Cougar for a much more uniform look. Overall, the molding was rounded, top to bottom, for a slight bubble appearance. Bumpers were again urethane; door side pieces were vinyl; and front and rear panel pieces were ABS plastic. All LS models, as well as the 1987 XR-7, had chrome rub strips. The 1987 20th Anniversary Cougar had gold-colored rub strips. The 1988 XR-7 models had body color molding and rub strips (no chrome), available in white, red, or black.

BUMPERS (FRONT AND REAR)

Once again, the molding was formed into the bumper covers. And once again, the rub strip was removable so it can be replaced. See the 1983-86 information above for the solution.

FRONT FENDER SIDE MOLDINGS

Unlike the earlier cars, these moldings were made of ABS plastic and were bolted onto the fenders from the back side. Ford actually made replacement somewhat easy on us, for a change! Again, there was a version for the cornering lamp, and another for without. Aside from the body-painted XR-7 versions and the gold-inset 20th Anniversary cars, there were no other variations.

One semi-common problem with the ABS moldings is that the built-in threaded mounting tabs can snap off. If you happen to have this issue and also the snapped-off piece, it is possible to reattach it using Gorilla Glue or similar strong adhesive. Otherwise you may need to hunt down a replacement molding to get two good mounting tabs. It also may be possible to secure the molding to the car using two-sided 3M tape or even small dabs of silicone when applied carefully. While either method can work, both will make molding removal a little more difficult.

REAR QUARTER SIDE MOLDINGS

Just like the front moldings, the rear quarter panel moldings were ABS plastic and bolted right on, with access to the bolts from the trunk. No major variations. See above for repair information.

DOOR SIDE MOLDINGS

These were all wider on 1987-88 models so no real variations on that part. They all, however, were still applied using double-sided tape and they also had the aluminum backing strips as well. It might just be our imagination but we swear that these moldings seem to lie a lot flatter than on the earlier cars.

REFINISHING

General prep work for the 1987-88 cars is the same as outlined above for the earlier cars. It seems as if the bumper molding paint was somehow even thinner on 1987-88 cars so you’ve probably got quite a bit of yellow urethane bumper color showing. Ford wisely didn’t use a unique color for these moldings (even though it’s listed as “Midnight Smoke”, it’s really just a satin black). So refinishing them with spray paint is extremely easy. We always recommend SEM Trim Black (#39143), as it holds up incredibly well and gives the perfect factory finish.

Also, when sanding, be careful not to use too heavy of a sandpaper grit on the ABS fender moldings. It’s really easy to go too deep and really scratch things up badly. For those we would recommend a grey Scotch-Brite pad. All other vinyl/urethane molding can be sanded with a red Scotch-Brite pad.

So that’s the easy part. It gets a lot more difficult when it comes to the rub strip. It seems as though the fading problems from the 1983-86 cars were mostly resolved with the 1987 redesign, which is a great thing for these cars as they age. But that doesn’t mean it will never happen.

We still feel that 3/4″ chrome tape is a decent solution here. That can be applied and trimmed rather easily. If you have a 20th Anniversary Edition, all of the rub strips are finished in a gold color but it’s not a real intense gold; it’s a little more subtle. We are still looking for a gold tape that isn’t so “bling” but we’re sure it’s out there. We’ve seen people attempt to paint the gold and it while nice looking from a distance, it never quite comes out looking like the factory finish.

For 1988 XR-7 models with the monochrome finish, both the rub strip and the moldings themselves will need color-matched to the body paint. We say this because it’s incredibly difficult to find NOS pieces pre-molded in the color you need. We’ve looked for years and have found very few. Painting them is going to be much simpler and more accurate. You can indeed use regular LS molding and paint it, if you so wish. There is no shame in that.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE (ALL)

To keep your newly refinished molding looking great, all that’s really needed is a good washing with car wash solution and water. We prefer to keep the finish natural…in other words, not waxing the molding. That makes the finish stay factory-looking for life. Some people like to wax the molding and that’s fine, just keep in mind that it can make the finish too shiny over time. Bug and tar remover shouldn’t affect a fully-dried finish if you need to use that.

Like many vehicles from the 1980s, we are now at the point where some things on our cars might really need replacement and there’s no better example of that than with the weatherstripping. These rubber pieces are all that keep the rain and elements out of the car, while keeping comfortable air in. And generally our cars tended to have good weatherstripping from the factory; the water channeled out in key areas, and the cars were quiet enough for their time. But maybe you’ve noticed some air or water infiltration. Or perhaps some parts are torn or cracked or even missing. This section should help you make informed decisions about replacing the weatherstripping across your car. We’ll start this article toward the front of the vehicle then move toward the back. The information below is for all 1983-88 Cougars and Thunderbirds, except where noted.

Weatherstripping is expensive—we’re talking maybe more than what you paid for your entire car.

A word of caution before starting: as generally seems to be the case with all vehicles, weatherstripping is expensive. Like, we’re talking maybe more than what you paid for your entire car. Unfortunately there seems to be no magic shortcut or good deals on replacement weatherstripping. It is going to cost you. As long as you are prepared for this going forward, the sticker shock will be a little more tolerable.

Hood Area

You should have two main seals in the hood area. One is the hood-to-header panel seal, an approx. 1″ thin, semi-rigid piece that’s held on the header panel with several screws (Ford p/n E3SZ-8326-A). A lot of times this piece will rip or tear near the latch area. Or sometimes it’s missing altogether, as the screw holes are fiberglass and can snap off. Or perhaps the header panel was replaced and the piece is just plain gone. Technically it’s an air deflector that helps funnel air back to the radiator; however, water will just drip out of the front bumper cover without it. But it does keep the headlight wiring protected from excess water and ice. You should consider having this piece if possible. New replacement seals are available at various places listed on this page.

The other main seal is the hood-to-cowl seal and again, its job is to keep water from running into the engine bay from the windshield and cowl area. There are about 12 nylon pins that hold it to the hood, and they can easily rip the weatherstrip. These pieces are available new, and the same one was used on the Cougar, Thunderbird, and Mark VII.

There are some other, smaller pieces under the hood as well. The hood-to-fender pieces keep water from getting around the hinges near the cowl area (original part numbers were E3SZ-16071-B and E3SZ-16072-B). These pieces are available new.

Also, you have a few front fender apron seals and front fender splash shields hanging around your lower front engine compartment. They are technically not “seals” but they do keep water and road grime front getting into the engine bay from the wheel wells. These rarely deteriorate or tear, but they can go missing due to lost fasteners. These are also available new (some minor trimming may possibly be needed).

Last, there are four hood bumpers that slide into slots on the hood. They keep the hood floating above the fenders. Again, they rarely go bad or missing, but new ones are available and should be identical to those used on Fox Mustangs.

Front Door, Outer

The beltline molding (aka “dew wipe”) is one of the most commonly broken pieces of weatherstripping on the entire car, mainly because it’s the only one that’s really on the outside and relatively unprotected. Water, ice, and sun damage are very common. The main function of this piece is to keep water out of the door as much as possible. Each time the window is rolled up or down, this piece will “wipe” the outer window and wick water away. Some water, in normal use, will still drip into the door itself and find its way out of the drain holes; that’s considered normal. But with broken weatherstripping here, you can imagine what happens—excess water will lay in the bottom of the door and cause rust rather quickly. And that can be downright disastrous.

For 1983-86 cars there is some good news: you can indeed restore your dew wipes to (roughly) factory condition. You can remove your beltline trim piece and take off the old outer molding. From the factory it’s held on by staples; on replacement it will likely need held on by pop rivets, which may mean drilling some holes, but they won’t be seen in normal use. And it doesn’t matter if you have a vent window or not—the molding can be modified for either door style. Replacement beltline molding varies; we still have not come across the exact factory style, although there is some good universal stuff out there that will do the job. A few people have mentioned the Fairchild brand from Rock Auto, and we’ve also used this style before with acceptable results. It’s a universal piece that’s cut-to-fit. Of all the weatherstripping on the entire car, this piece seems to be the most inexpensive to replace using this universal piece.

We’ve also discovered beltline kits offered by Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc. for a pretty decent overall price, considering it’s an 8-piece kit.

Unfortunately for 1987-88 owners, the dew wipe is molded into the beltline trim piece and cannot be separated, like on earlier cars. To be technically correct, replacing the dew wipe requires replacing the entire beltline trim. We do not know of anyone selling these new; therefore you would need to find good, used pieces to replace yours in your car’s style, or luck out and find NOS pieces (and don’t hold your breath for that).

However…if you can cut the factory wipe section off your trim in a clean manner, it should be possible to install the same kits mentioned above on your trim. We know of several people that have done just that with good success.

Front Door, Inner

The window channel run which is exactly what it says: a channel inside which the window glass slides up and down. This part is unique in that it is exposed on both the exterior and interior, therefore there’s double the chance that it can rot. We’ve seen some photos of this piece from cars in the southern U.S. and beyond, and the cracking is just unbelievable.

Right now there is no brand new channel run that we know about, that is specific for our cars. Again, this part is identical to the Mark VII (1983-86: Ford p/n E4SZ-6321597/6-C) but searching for that doesn’t really help. The good news is that it can be adapted from other Ford cars of various model years.

Reader Doug has reported that he used 2008-11 Ford Focus channel runs (Ford p/n 8S4Z-6320556-B and 8S4Z-6320557-B) for his ’86 Thunderbird with decent results. He says that they’re not as long where they go down into the door as the stock pieces, but they’re long enough to keep the window glass in place. He also states that they’re not 100% perfect but they do seal well and function decently enough.

Other Ford cars might offer some solutions as well. Fox Mustang channel runs are a bit short but can likely work. Similarly, Ford Tempo/Mercury Topaz 2-door channel runs can work but only if you have the optional vent window, because it’s also a tad shorter. Personally, we’ve used early Ford Ranger channel runs before with great results in our vent window car.

Jose sent this vent window weatherstripping tip: “Steele Rubber p/n 70-3576-58 universal rubber channel works for the T-Bird/Cougar vent window divider bar weatherstripping with little modification.”

Universal channel run can be used. The trick is in the upper corner, where a 90-degree cut-and-glue is needed. That’s the part that scares most people and rightly so. However, it can be done successfully, and the length can be tailored to match the factory pieces.

Right now there are a few people on the Facebook group pages that are working on some exclusive channel run solutions and when/if we get new info, we’ll be sure to post that here.

Speaking of the vent window, there is a unique perimeter seal around the glass that is more or less one-piece in nature. We are unsure if that part is separate or part of the entire assembly. Replacement may need to be with the entire glass structure. More info here as it becomes available.

Next we have the drip rail molding which channels water away from the interior and also makes sure you don’t get a sudden downpour of water when you open the door. Generally they hold up well, although they can tear with age and extended use. Drip rails are available new.

The inner belt molding is just like the outer beltline molding except on the interior of the car. It’s easily identifiable by the chrome strip running down the full length. This piece easily pops out of the door when the window is down, and is only held in by built-in clips. These inner belt moldings are available new, usually as a pair.

There is an upper door seal which is clipped in the front portion of the door, where it meets the A-pillar. Again, these usually do not get damaged but can rarely pop out and go missing. They are available new and are frightfully expensive. This part was also shared with the Mark VII.

And there is a lower door seal on the underside of the door that’s held in by about 10 nylon pins. This seal keeps water and air from intruding through the lower door gap and into the car. Sometimes it can get torn, or even go missing if it’s kicked enough times. It is available new and was shared with the Mark VII.

Finally, you can indeed get an entire door seal kit from Steele Rubber which includes the more popular weatherstrip parts mentioned above. That might save you some time and effort. (You may also need to sell your plasma and firstborn child to afford it).

Car Body

Perhaps the most important inner seal, the inside door perimeter seal is the main barrier between the outside and your interior. The door closes upon it, after all. Therefore it’s very susceptible to rips and tears, particularly where your feet will swipe the sill plate upon entry/exit from the car. Sometimes minor rips and tears and even some holes can be repaired using a good weatherstrip adhesive, and that’s fine. But if yours is beyond that sort of help, there’s good news: new perimeter seal weatherstrip is available. It’s not cheap, we will again iterate. It was a common part used in the Cougar, Thunderbird, and Mark VII.

If you have a factory sunroof (flip up only), there is a sunroof seal that greatly helps with water and air infiltration (Ford p/n E3SZ-6351346-A). Also there is a seal that goes on the body that’s identical to those used on other Fords of the era, including the Mustang.

Similarly, you may want to replace your factory power moonroof seal. It is also available new through Sunroof Doctor. They also have a limited number of aftermarket power moonroof parts available, depending on the brand.

Last, we have found a new trunk seal to help tremendously with water intrusion. Generally they don’t normally get all torn up but they can compress over time, which leads to air and water infiltration in some cases. We’ve found news ones at several places listed on this page, and for a decent price.

Other Seals

There are seals between the taillights and the rear attachment panel. The seals are circular in shape, pre-molded, and are considered part of the taillight housing assembly. On rare occasions they can fail and let water into the taillights. Sometimes they’re just distorted but other times they will split at the factory seam. We have seen them sold separately but can’t seem to find any part numbers or vendors at this point. If you need to replace them, you might consider getting new taillight housings and swapping those seals into yours.

Other miscellaneous rubber parts, like the hood, trunk, and door bumpers, are available new and are generally inexpensive. They’re not really seals, but they do help keep things quiet and performing like new.

Where To Buy

So where exactly can you find these new parts? Until a few years ago, finding weatherstripping was pretty difficult and scattered amongst vendors on the Internet. That is, until Steele Rubber Products came along and started producing pieces for our cars. Because the general shape of a majority of the weatherstripping was similar to other Fords of the era, it was probably easy enough to get them into production (in particular, we likely have the Mark VII to thank for parts availability here). Steele seems to carry pretty much all of the weatherstripping mentioned above. We have no affiliation with them, just want everyone to know that they’re a long-known trusted name in the auto restoration business that has finally begun to fill a need for our cars.

Interstingly, a company called Classique Cars Unlimited seems to sell the identical parts as Steele but for a bit less cost. And they take Paypal.

A lot of people have had success with used, but good, weatherstripping from eBay, swap meets, or the local salvage yard (see article below). That would certainly cost less and might be worth the time and effort to hunt them down.

Some of the other odds-and-ends vendors have been linked in the sections above, as required. Should you find another vendor for weatherstripping please don’t be afraid to let us know.

Installation

In replacing the channel run with weatherstripping from other Ford vehicles, James writes:

“Basically you need a pair of them from a two-door and a single one from a four-door and it can be from any position 2010-13 Mazda3 and Ford Focus. I prefer getting them from junkyards because you can get all three in one shot. If you remove the forward window track from inside the door you’re going to need to reshape it so it accepts the weatherstripping like the channel run. So the inside lip is 7/8 of an inch and the outside lip is 5/8 of an inch. Standard spring loaded sheet metal cutters will do the job. Then you basically take the two door window run put it in get it in position and cut it off right where it meets the forward window track. Having glued a piece of weatherstrip into the forward window track, you put it in. Glue in the channel run all along the top and on the B-pillar and then put the window up and leave it sit for 24 hours.”

Our friend and longtime contributor Zach passed along info from his own weatherstrip replacement, for both the window channel run and outer belt molding:

“Because my car (1986 Cougar XR-7) was in Florida for 20 years, ALL of the trim around the windows was totally destroyed. The dew wipes were especially bad, but it all had to be replaced. Pulling on the trim would result in it shattering in my hands. It hardly served a purpose anymore. The glass would rattle whenever the doors were shut!​

“My biggest problem was the window weatherstripping that goes around the top and side of the rest of the window frame. I went to the junkyard to look for a possible replacement. I spent an hour looking at Lincolns until I stumbled onto an unexpected find: A 2-door 1992 Mercury Topaz. When I examined the window channel trim, it seemed like a close enough match. I had no idea how perfect it was. This stuff fit absolutely PERFECT into the window frame. Absolutely everything matched up. In fact, I believe that if the ’86 had normal windows, the entire piece would likely fit perfectly. This is good news for people who have full glass or vent windows.

“Simply crank down the windows and begin to work out the weatherstripping. Begin at the top and work to the back corner. There will some extra weather stripping that goes down inside the door. This is so the glass doesn’t work its way out of the channel. Install the weather stripping just like it is in the Tempo/Topaz. If you have vent windows, you can simply cut off what you don’t need and trim it to meet up with the vent channel felt. The best part is that it’s the nice, soft, pliable rubber.

“I ordered the beltline weather stripping (dew wipes) and the vent window channel trim from JC Whitney. The vent window channel trim simply gets snugged right into the channel, then some minor trimming of the material is required.

“The vent window channel trim simply gets snugged right into the channel, then some minor trimming of the material is required. The dew wipes had to be pop riveted to the trim piece with careful measurement, but they seem to be very solid and correct for the design.

“These windows are AIR TIGHT now. It’s amazing!”

The finishing touches on any project are always a welcome sign. For these cars, steeped in a rich history of embracing the brand image, there are no better examples of said finishing touches as the emblems. Lincoln-Mercury division always made sure that the cat emblem was one of the most prominent features on the Cougar, so much so that the logo itself was the brand image of L-M for many years. The Fox Cougars had no shortage of exterior nomenclature, but over time these bits get pitted and degrade with the elements and sunlight. Or, if you have factory-style vinyl decals, they might be cracking or peeling, or missing altogether. You might be thinking about replacing these parts, so we’ve prepared some helpful information about doing just that.

Note: Please refer to the Emblems page here for visual references and part numbers where applicable.

Types

Emblems on these cars, for the most part, used real elements:

• Things like the C-pillar emblems, grille emblem, etc. were made of real metal.
• The plastic nomenclature (interior, trunklid, taillights, etc.) were made of high-grade OEM chromed plastics and have held up quite well in a lot of cases.
• Some special emblems were cloisonné, which is glass laid into a metal mold. Most of the 1987 20th Anniversary Cougar’s exterior emblems were this way, along with a few Blue Max and other special edition Cougars of the era.

Metal Emblems

The metal emblems maybe originated as pot metal and then were chromed. Regardless, they can be rechromed again if you don’t have any serious pitting. Minor scratches and abrasions can usually be fixed during this process. You will need to find a shop that specialized in chroming and get a price quote from them; it won’t be cheap, as government regulations particularly in the U.S. have made this process a lot more costly. You can always hunt down a better, used or even NOS piece if you so desire. That may end up being cheaper in the long run. But either way you can definitely get a better looking end result.

Plastic Emblems

While we’ve seen the chrome portions pit, more often than not the plastic can break. Either one of these situations will require replacement of the emblem, as these problems cannot be fixed easily. The trunklid/taillight nomenclature, in particular, are the most susceptible to pitting and damage since they stick out from the surface.

Good, used emblems are out there, so be sure to check eBay and swap meets, as well as your local salvage yard. Also, if you know the part number, you can search for new old stock (NOS) pieces; see this page for reference photos and part numbers. You may have to hunt for awhile, though.

We have seen a few attempts at 3D printed emblems over on the Thunderbird side, and we’re encouraged that this process may lead to new nomenclature available for the Cougar in the future. If there is any good information on that later on then we’ll be sure to update this page.

Cloisonné Emblems

These special emblems are essentially glass with metal inlays. They are beautiful to behold and are very substantial pieces. Unfortunately they do have some big downfalls, mainly with the glass portions chipping, and the metal fading or de-chroming under UV light. And we don’t know of any way to practically fix either problem. We’re fairly certain that there are many drawers full of chipped or faded cloisonné emblems that owners have removed over the years, and just replaced with others. Again, NOS pieces are rare and expensive. Your best bet may be decent replacement emblems but be warned: these require an inordinate amount of patience to find, even on eBay. That’s mostly due to the scarcity of surviving cars with said emblems.

There seem to be few places that can restore a cloisonné emblem; Emblemagic or Hibernia Auto Restoration, LLC may possibly be able to refurbish them. Please contact these businesses directly for a quote.

Decals & Striping

There were very few factory Cougars that had adhesive-backed decals. The lower sections of 1984-87 XR-7’s had applied striping. Two-tone 1983-88 cars had a thick (approx. 1″) multi-colored band to bridge the colored sections. The 1988 XR-7 had a special pinstriping that was, in fact, a decal. And some dealer-installed special editions like the Cougar RS and Blue Max cars had additional decals and lower striping.

1984-86 COUGAR XR-7 (LOWER)

The lower section of these Cougars were set apart from the lower models with their unique tri-band striping. Lower sections were generally silver or dark charcoal, depending upon the main body color. The striping appeared to be white in color. We don’t know of any aftermarket kits available but these should be rather easy to reproduce with vinyl or even paint.

Note: If you own a 1984-86 XR-7 and can get us the stripe measurements from your car, please contact us. Thanks!

1987 COUGAR XR-7 (LOWER)

The lower striping for 1987 XR-7s changed slightly, now four bands of black over a medium silver (argent). Again, we know of no pre-made aftermarket kits. The striping can be reproduced with vinyl or paint. One thing to note is that the striping ends short of each body line and opening by about 1/4″ or so, meaning the stripes do not wrap around the wheel well openings, nor do they touch at the bumper-to-fender seams.

Thanks to viewer Niki we have now produced a template guide for the 1987 Cougar XR-7 striping pattern. You can download it here:

DOWNLOAD 1987 XR-7 STRIPING TEMPLATE

1988 COUGAR XR-7 (UPPER)

There is upper striping on 1988 XR-7s in the form of decals. Unlike “normal” pinstriping found on LS models, the ’88 XR-7 striping is above the upper body crease. At the C-pillar the stripes get larger and wrap around the trunklid; at the front, the stripes taper to a point by the grille. We have looked for these factory stripe kits over the years and discovered that they’re REALLY difficult to find. If we ever get part numbers we’ll post them here; in the meantime, here are some photos of a mint ’88 XR-7 for reference:

COUGAR RS

The enigmatic Cougar RS model was the only other 1983-86 Cougar model aside from the XR-7 to have wide bodyside moldings. It also had decals on the lower section that were very similar to those used on Mercury Capri RS cars. A company called Graphic Express carries the Capri “RS” emblems but we’re unsure if they were the same as the ones used on the Cougar version. The lower striping is definitely unique and will need custom cut and color matched by a vinyl shop (or painted on).

COUGAR BLUE MAX/SPECIAL EDITION

The lower section of 1985-86 Cougar Blue Max Editions were simply painted silver (argent). However, for the 1988 Blue Max Edition (and other Special Editions) there was a full lower stripe decal that was applied to the car. It essence there were eight separate pieces applied, with the compound curves of the bumper covers being the most difficult ones to apply. Generally they have held up well, although random chunks of the decal can disappear or peel off.

A good, permanent, and rather inexpensive solution would be to simply paint the stripes on. And we wouldn’t blame you if you did. The issue becomes the spacing; with so many parallel stripes going on, it’s very easy to misalign them and your eye will definitely notice any small errors. It might be something best left to a professional.

We do not know of any pre-made replacement Special Edition/Blue Max striping kits, so you would need to have them custom cut at a vinyl shop, using your existing striping as a pattern. The shop may also be able to apply the kit for an additional fee.

Based upon our own measurements of the stripes on a Blue Max Edition we previously owned, we’ve compiled a guide to help recreate the stripes for your vehicle should you need to do so. Click the link below to download.

DOWNLOAD BLUE MAX/SE STRIPING TEMPLATE

Restoring the outside rearview mirrors on your Cougar or Thunderbird can tend to get a little tricky. We’re here to help you understand what can and cannot be done, and how to do things the correct way.

For all models 1983-88, the driver’s side mirror glass is normal, while the passenger side glass is slightly convex, and carries the ubiquitous “OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE CLOSER THAN THEY APPEAR” statement.

SINGLE DRIVER’S SIDE CABLE REMOTE MIRROR

All base 1983-86 Cougars and Thunderbirds came with a single cable remote driver’s side mirror as standard. The passenger side received a plastic block-off plate. This setup was more common on “value leader” cars, which were stripped-down models designed to be priced on the lower end to attract buyers. But today, such vehicles are very uncommon to see in the wild; power mirrors were much more popular.

FORD PASSENGER SIDE CABLE REMOTE MIRROR

However, for those that wanted a passenger side mirror on such base models, Ford did offer a matching cable-remote passenger mirror over the counter at Ford dealerships (p/n E3WY-17696-A). It required drilling a hole in the door panel, but otherwise attached and worked—and even appeared—identically to the driver’s side mirror. That was the only way to get “dual cable remote” mirrors on these cars.

DUAL POWER MIRRORS

Dual power mirrors were standard on all mid-to-upper level cars (LS, XR7, etc.), or on base models equipped with either a common preferred equipment package (PEP) or the standalone dual power mirror option. They were also required on vehicles with the optional vent windows. We estimate that roughly 75% or more cars had the power mirror option, since it always appeared in a PEP.

The wiring pigtail for the power mirror went through the mirror housing, into the door cavity (remove the black plastic triangle on the door and you’ll see it), and down to the door harness. The connector was inconveniently placed, as it’s nearly impossible to swap out mirrors without removing the door panel itself. At least access to the mounting bolts is easy.

CHROME vs. BLACK vs. PAINTED HOUSINGS

The Cougar GS (base) and LS models always had chrome mirror housings, regardless of model year. The XR7 models in 1984, 1985, and 1988 had body colored (painted) housings. The 1986-87 XR7s had black housings (technically “charcoal”). In contrast, few Thunderbirds had chrome mirror housings, as their base color was black.

The only non-XR7 Cougar to have a body-colored, painted mirror was the 1987 20th Anniversary model, whose mirrors were Cabernet Red.

Over time, the chrome can pit, crinkle, or flake off the ABS plastic housings. Or perhaps the black housing’s finish is chalky or blotchy. Or perhaps the paint has faded. All of these situations are usually due to sun exposure and extended time in the elements. If you need to replace your housing, it’s possible to transfer the guts of your mirror to a different housing. For those with painted housings, you can use a good black housing as a starting base.

EARLIER vs. LATER STYLE

Over the six model years from 1983-88, the mirror housings did slightly change and evolve. While all mirrors from that timeframe had three distinct mounting bolts, earlier (1983-84) housings had a total of three mounting holes, with a fourth to hold in the motor mechanism. The double-sided mounting bolts were directly screwed into the housing for a secure fit.

The housings seem to have changed a bit in 1985 or 1986 with the addition of two more holes, one between the older mounting holes and another underneath the motor mounting screw from the previous version. For this version of the mirror, those extra mounting holes were unused.

That changed beginning in 1987, when those extra holes were used on the later housings thanks to the addition of a rubbery wind splitter attached to the otherwise stock 1986-style mirror. These splitters were apparently an effort to help quiet down any wind noise associated with the mirror, and also to help keep rain away from the leading edge and splashing onto the side glass. Since the splitters themselves contain the mirror mounting bolts, the splitter had to be mounted to the mirror housing via the two new attaching bolts. As such, the entire mounting assembly was now a bit more flimsy and care had to be taken to ensure proper mounting and strength. It is possible to convert a 1985-86 housing to a 1987-88 style by adding the splitters. Likewise, removal of the splitters from a 1987-88 housing and adding earlier mounting bolts should allow it to bolt to earlier cars.

Also, later mirrors (~1986 and up) seem to have gained drain holes in the bottom of the housing, directly under the mirror and close to the door trim. This seems to be very hit-or-miss, as some people report having them while others do not, even within the same model year and trim level. We consider drain holes to be “factory” as they were introduced, and whether your car has them or not, it was likely meant to be that way. They are generally a way to determine the older housing from the newer one.

POWER MIRROR MOTOR

The power mirror motor mechanism is hidden behind the glass and is attached to the housing with two very hard-to-find-and-remove Phillips screws. Usually the mirror has to be moved to the extreme top and bottom to even see the screws. A strong but thin Phillips screwdriver helps with removing the screws. Once they are removed, and the third screw is removed (by the three mounting screws), the entire mechanism along with the attached mirror glass can be taken out of the housing, with the wiring pigtail pulled through the mounting grommet. All of the power motors and wiring between 1983-1988 seem to be identical. We have not seen a separate part number for the motor itself and it’s unclear if it was used on other Ford vehicles.

GLASS

The outside mirror glass, whether in the backing plate or by itself, was the same shape between 1983-88, so it all interchanges. The Thunderbird was the only other vehicle which shared the glass shape; no other Ford vehicle matched up.

One of the more disappointing things about these cars was that, despite their sales numbers and popularity when new, the aftermarket did not embrace them as much as they should have. And back in the day it was quite disappointing if you broke the glass in your mirror and needed a replacement, as parts stores seemed to carry all kinds of mirror glass from other makes and models. But not our cars. We have never found a solid reason why, but we suspect that it was Ford’s way of not authorizing aftermarket production in order to get the unlucky owner back into the dealership for their exclusive Ford replacement part. Replacement was a bit more of a pain than it needed to be, both physically and in the wallet.

This being said…in order to be technically correct (as in, judged for car show competition) your mirror glass should carry the correct year code. You can find your code at the bottom of the glass. The typical code convention is “#-AX-YEAR”, where the first number can be nearly anything (at least 1 through 12), the AX in the middle is consistent, and the YEAR corresponds to the same model year as your car (ex: 1984 cars should have “84”), or one year newer, or one year older. This is due to the supply of mirrors and how they got used in the assembly line process. Leftovers from the previous model year found their way onto the next one, and likewise, current cars could have mirrors from the following model year if the supply worked out that way. We have also observed that the mirror could have a different code, “#-DCA®-#”, from the factory. That seems to be the same code on Ford official replacement glass (see below) but it was also out in the wild. We’ve even seen a few known factory pieces with no code at all.

We hate to say that there’s no rhyme or reason as to how the mirrors were dated, but that’s pretty much exactly how it is. The important thing here is that they pretty much ARE dated on most cars. In a perfect world, any given car should technically have the same model year stamp on both mirrors (if so equipped with two mirrors) but it’s possible they could be one year off from each other, and that should be fine for judging.

If you have a cracked or scratched mirror and you wish to replace it for show purposes, you will need to find a good, used one with the same glass date code, or within one model year. And that is not a fun task. You may have to hunt everywhere possible (eBay, salvage yards, etc.) to find correct-dated glass and swap it out.

Unless you don’t care or aren’t showing the car, in which case, use what you find and be blissful!

The official Ford replacement glass has a code at the bottom but it seems to be different from the OEM stock mirror glass. Instead of the typical “#-AX-YEAR” convention, the replacement mirror typically has “#-DCA®-#”. This seems fairly consistent across all replacement Ford glass that we’ve seen. Not that this is bad…it’s just different, that’s all. It should be fine for judging.

Ford OEM glass (with backing plate) replacement part numbers:

• Driver’s side, 1983-88 all: E6SZ-17K707-B
• Passenger side, 1983-88 all: E4SZ-17K707-A, E6SZ-17K707-A

Some aftermarket replacement glass seems to be available for these cars now. We have seen them listed on eBay but cannot attest to their quality or accuracy, as we’ve never tried them nor have we received any feedback on them. Again, if it’s not a show vehicle, it might be a better deal for you provided it’s a quality replacement piece. If you have experience with this glass or would like to try it, we’d love to get your feedback.

REPLACEMENT MIRROR ASSEMBLIES

Every once in a while we’ll see NOS Ford mirror assemblies for these cars on eBay. As you can imagine, they can be expensive (relatively speaking) but if they are genuine Ford pieces, then that’s the price that needs paid to get them. Ford seemed to have stopped producing both the housing assemblies and the replacement glass sometime in the mid-1990s, so what’s out there is all there is now. We cannot stress how nice it is to actually buy a new mirror and install it. If you’re thinking about replacing your housings with NOS pieces, we highly recommend doing so if you have the means and the money.

The new assemblies can have the same code as OEM, but because these were produced until the mid-1990s, the date number may be much higher than your car’s model year. Ours has the “#-DCA®-#” code convention. Sometimes the glass will not have a date code at all. This should be alright if you’re replacing them in pairs. Also, we have to say that the quality of the chrome is very good and should be good enough for show quality. The ones we’ve found all seem to have the drain holes, if that matters to you.

Also keep in mind that not all replacement mirror assemblies are power mirrors! We’ve almost clicked the eBay ‘Buy It Now’ button a few times on what we thought was a good deal…only to discover that it was a cable remote mirror and not power. So be careful when you’re shopping!

Power mirror assembly (chrome) part numbers:

• Driver side, 1983-86 – E3SZ-17682-C
• Driver side, 1987-88 – E7WY-17682-B
• Passenger side, 1983-86 – E3SZ-17682-D
• Passenger side, 1987-88 – E7WY-17682-A

Power mirror assembly (black) part numbers:

• Driver’s side, 1983-86 – E6SZ-17682-B
• Driver’s side, 1987-88 – E7SZ-17682-C
• Passenger side, 1983-86 – E6SZ-17682-A
• Passenger side, 1987-88 – E7SZ-17682-B

Cable mirror assembly (chrome) part numbers:

• Driver side, 1983-86 – E3WY-17682-A
• Passenger side, 1983-86 – E3WY-17696-A

Cable mirror assembly (black) part numbers:

• Passenger side, 1983-86 – E3SZ-17696-A

Window Trim Restoration

Special thanks to Zach for writing this article.

The factory vent windows found in 1983-86 Cougars and Thunderbirds are some of the nicest options to have. As you may expect, though, over time the mechanism can wear out. If one or both of the latches on your vent windows have excessive wobble or “play,” we have just the answer.

IMPORTANT: Even though this appears to be a safe approach, there is always the chance of shattering the glass. Always take your time and use caution.

I got tired of the wobble in my vent window latches. Not only did it keep the window from sealing properly, but it led to increased noise at highway speeds.

Start by removing the clevis pin from the latch (some models may have an Allen set screw). While your first idea may be to hammer out the pin, we recommend against it (for obvious reasons).

My technique is to take a nail or a pop rivet and force the pin out with pressure. By propping the rivet in the wire cutter opening on the pliers, I was able to have a reasonably sturdy method for pushing out the pin. You will want to use two hands for this.

Once the pin has been pushed far enough, the latch should come right off. Do this slowly, as there is a spring that will now be loose inside. Mine was covered in grease, so it stayed in the bolt hole of the main screw.

I suppose they had a good reason to grease it up, so you may consider adding some if yours is dry. It looks to be fairly heavy stuff.

Once you remove the spring, you will notice that the hole in which it resides will accept an allen wrench. I believe it is a 7mm, but I used a Torx T-50 and it worked just fine. You may also notice how loose the entire assembly is. Soon it will be nice and tight.

I was going to tighten the bolt and put it back together, but I decided to try something. I thought some Teflon tape may help it from backing out in the future. After applying the Teflon tape, I threaded it back in and used the T-50 to gently tighten it. I can’t imagine using more than 10 ft lbs on this thing… maybe much less. You may want to crank it down, but the risk for breaking the glass is just too strong. Then just put the latch back together and enjoy your whistle-free windows!

Here is a shop manual scan of vent window removal and replacement.

If your vent window itself is loose, it could be the hinge spring tensioner.

The passenger vent window on my car was loose when I bought it. I could open it up, but as soon as the car began to move the wind would just blow it shut. It wasn’t a very effective “vent” window at this point.

After pulling the door panels and comparing the two windows, I saw that the passenger window was missing its spring hardware on the hinge bolt. This consists of a small spring (looks like the spring on the inner door handle mechanism, but it isn’t), a retaining washer, and a nut.

After many years’ use, the nut must back down the threads and shoot inside the door cavity, taking the spring and washer with it. These parts were totally missing from the passenger door in my car.

I found an ’85 Thunderbird at the boneyard which had vent windows. The glass was missing on one frame, so it was the ideal candidate for experimentation.

I discovered one major thing: It is possible to remove/install this spring hardware without breaking the glass. However, this pertains to the ’85 Thunderbird and ’86 Cougar that I worked on. I can assume that the ’83 and ’84 cars are identical, but I cannot guarantee it. I don’t want anybody to break their glass!

I took a 1/2″ wrench and worked my arm through the upper part of the door through one of the big holes. This put my hand/wrench right at the nut on the vent window hinge bolt. By sliding the box-end wrench on and off of the nut, I was able to simply rotate the vent window with my other hand and remove the nut.

The window became easier to move back and forth. Eventually, the spring became loose on the bolt, but there were still some threads left for the nut. This meant that the nut wouldn’t violently shoot off when it reached the end of its thread.

Installing the spring, washer and nut on the ’86 was just as easy. I assembled it all by hand and started the threads. Then, using the box-end on the nut, I simply moved the vent window back and forth to tighten the whole assembly. Because this technique mimics the window’s normal operation, the chance of stressing the frame is minimal. You can simply move it back and forth until it feels tight enough.

NOTE: You may want to use some grease on the bolt-to-door joint, as well as the retaining washer. Once I got the required tension on the hinge, the window screamed like a banshee. I guess all those years of being loose allowed some rust to get in there!