If, like most all the visitors to this site, you are absolutely enchanted by the 1983-88 Cougar's captivating shape and have to buy one, or if you're just looking for a reliable mode of transportation, this section will help you with your decision to buy a used Cougar. Every effort is made to keep this section free of any bias, no matter how painful some of the truths may be!

The main reasons for purchasing a Fox-chassis Mercury Cougar have historically been the following:

• Reliability
• High level of safety
• Front-engine, rear-drive layout
• Availability of performance and/or V8 engines
• Decent fuel economy
• Roomy interior
• Luxury-oriented creature comforts
• Solid handling and stability
• Snappy ride
• Ability to modify the vehicle
• Affordable normal-wear replacement parts

This is one of the rare cars from the 1980's that can be a lot of things to a lot of people. Many of the owners, including yours truly, had a Cougar for a first car. Even years after they've sold their Cougar, people still e-mail me about how much they loved their Cat. To drive one daily, or to just sit behind the wheel, seems to leave an indelible impression upon nearly everyone that experiences it. There is a certain magic involved with these cars, an aura of sophistication, and perhaps even the comfort of knowing that this car is superior to a lot of other cars out there, past and present.

Yet as fanatical as some people are about their Cougars, there are certain things about them that we must admit are not perfect. Some common problem areas of the Fox Cougar include...

• Rust, rust, and more rust
• Very large turning radius
• Electrical gremlins
• Limited visibility through the rear glass areas
• Cramped back seat space
• Emissions system failures
• No new replacement parts for some areas of the car

Some of these problems can be attributed to normal wear-and-tear coupled with the passage of time. Others were built into the car at the time of manufacture. Yet most problems are livable or are temporary setbacks. The mere fact that between 1983-88, over 600,000 Cougars were sold, leaves quite a few parts around for many years to come.

Part of the problem with dealing with 1980's Cougars is the constant progress made with the electronic engine control systems from the beginning of the decade to the end. While progress is usually a very good thing (and generally it was with the Cougar), the down side is that we're left with a legacy to contend with. Between 1983 and 1988, the Cougar had the following:

• 3 different engines (turbo-4 cylinder, V6, V8)
• 3 types of fuel delivery systems (carburetor, CFI, SEFI)
• 2 electronic engine control systems (EEC-III, EEC-IV)
• At least 5 different engine bay configurations
• 2 engine crossmembers
• 5 different transmissions (C3, C5, AOD, A4LD, T-5)
• 2 different rear axle sizes (7.5", 8.8")
• 2 different rear end widths (Mustang-spec, Cougar/Thunderbird spec)
• 2 completely different interiors (1983-84, 1985-88)

...and so on. Remember that each engine required its own wiring, parts, injection, and engine bay configuration. With that in mind, here is a general guideline for buying a used Cougar.

1) Have a good idea of the engine size you'd prefer.

Knowing what engine type you're looking for will speed up the buying process. In general, the 302 (5.0) V8 is the engine of preference for a majority of people. Yet only about 30-40% of Cougars had the V8, so keep your eyes open if this is the engine you prefer. Far more popular was the 232 (3.8) V6, with nearly 60% of total sales in that period. The 1984-86 Cougar XR7 model had a third type of engine, the turbocharged 140 (2.3) inline 4 cylinder.

3.8 V6
The V6 is very good for daily driving duties such as commuting to and from work, going to the store, and merging with freeway traffic. In fact, that engine seems to really like the open road quite a bit. It is a decent motor as far as fuel economy; you can expect 16-20 mpg in mixed driving. This engine put out around 120 hp from 1983-87; the addition of port fuel injection in 1988 bumped the power up to 140 hp. This is definitely not a hot-rod engine, nor can it be modified as much as a V8 for performance. The fuel injection systems, EEC, and layout of this V6 engine do not permit much more than the stock power and torque outputs. However, if you are budget-minded or are not concerned with performance, the V6 is a good choice, particularly if mated to the optional overdrive (AOD) transmission. One thing to be aware of is the high failure rate of the head gaskets. This is a very well documented flaw with the design of the 3.8 V6, which uses aluminum heads with a cast-iron block. These two metals expand (with heat) at different rates, increasing the chances for a head gasket to blow out. Considering the age of these vehicles, you may want to prepare yourself for a head gasket replacement if you purchase a V6 Cougar. Typical head gasket replacement jobs run around $1000 in the U.S.

5.0 V8
The legendary 302 was reborn with fuel injection in the mid-1980's and helped usher in a new wave of performance. Unfortunately, Ford never stuffed high-performance V8's in these Cougars. From 1983-85 it only pushed out 130 hp....very low for a V8 in any year. From 1986-88 the Cougar received the same type of sequential electronic fuel injection (SEFI) as the Mustang 5.0, helping bump the Cougar's power up to 150 hp (155 hp in 1988 with dual exhaust). But more amazing was the torque output: at a mere 2000 rpms, the Cougar made 270 lb-ft of torque! To say that this engine got the Cat going would be slightly understated. However, the camshaft style used in the Cougar was ground for torque and the ability to tow a vehicle; by 4000 rpms it's pretty much done producing power.

In any event, the 5.0 is a more reliable engine than the V6, and returns the same--if not better--fuel economy. Part of the reason why is because all V8 Cougars had the AOD overdrive transmission from the factory. Reports of 30+ mpg on trips are not uncommon; I've experienced that several times. Fuel injection definitely helped with the longevity of the motor as well. Many people have reported their stock engines lasting well over 200,000 miles without a rebuild. The 302 block is pretty tough for normal street driving and provides smooth, effortless power on demand. The non-high output 5.0 stuffed between the strut towers of these Cougars is not as robust as the Mustang/Mark VII HO version but it does its job very well. If you think you want a V8, then you definitely want it...trust me. Hold out for nothing less.

If you are planning on modifying a Cougar to Mustang specs or better, and want to use the stock block, only the 1986-88 Cougars can be considered because of the EFI and the roller block setup. The awesome thing is that you can have a SEFI Cougar in either body style, whichever suits your tastes, and can be modified to perform as well as (or better than) a stock Mustang GT. Retrofitting a 1983-85 V8 to SEFI is cumbersome and frustrating at best. However, those engines respond well to a carburetor and general engine machine work. It all depends on your stance on the age-old question: carb or injection? In general, the 1983 V8 is the worst performer and because of its odd engine control for that year only (EEC-III), even working on that engine is frustrating. Ford never designed the EEC-III system to be easily diagnosed; in fact, it's pretty rare to find anyone these days that can work on that system at all. Not that it runs bad; it's just that when parts go bad, they are usually oddball parts not easily found and not cheap either. The 1984-up V8's are much easier to maintain and diagnose.

2.3 Turbo-4
Ford marketed the 1984-86 Cougar XR7 (and similar 1983-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe) as America's answer to performance imported cars. The addition of a turbocharger to a tried-and-true Pinto engine (yes, that's right) produced amazing results in the XR7. And the relatively light body style helped make this the most unique Cougar to come along in quite some time. As expected from a 4-cylinder engine, fuel economy is outstanding, with 30+ mpg on the highway being the norm, and usually 25 mpg+ in mixed driving. However, until the turbo unit kicks in, it's still a 4-banger in a roughly 3200 lb. car. The turbo-4 is generally a reliable motor but there are a few things you should know. When new, these engines had a high rate of failure on the turbo units. Back then most owners could get them replaced under the factory Ford warranty without much hassle....but those days are long gone now. Turbo units have dropped a bit in price lately and can be found on the Internet fairly easily. Still, you should know that when you start to hear a whistle, that's the warning sign that the unit is failing. The turbo-4 got a much-needed intercooler in the 1987-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe; still, that never helped the Cougar out as the XR7 switched to a V8 in 1987. So, the 1984-86 air-cooled turbo-4 is very sensitive and should be treated with care. Also, these engines pretty much require a cool-down period before shutting off the engine. This is to help the oil circulate and cool down the turbo unit. Not doing this will hasten turbo unit failure. And this engine, despite its great power-to-weight output, requires much more maintenance than a V6 or V8. Oil changes must be faithfully done every 2,500 miles, among other things. Driving and owning a turbo XR7 is more of a chore than the average car. If you're not into maintenance, then the turbo XR7 is not for you!

2) Know your driving style before you buy.

If you're into performance driving, the XR7 is the car to get. As one would expect, Ford pulled out almost all the stops in creating the 1984-86 turbo XR7. A beefier suspension system, revised sway bars, better rear end gear with gas shock stabilizers, and performance tires helped push the Cat through corners like never before. Inside the XR7 got the best interiors of any Cougar: bucket performance seats, console, floor shifter, analog gauges, etc. Remember that in the 1980's, these things were luxury items and not standard, as on most of today's vehicles. So the turbo XR7 is something special and quite uncommon (interestingly, the XR7 never received a brake upgrade). However, if you like the idea of upgraded suspension but don't care for the turbo engine, then a 1987-88 XR7 is the car for you. While it received the same 5.0 as the LS models, the suspension upgrades alone really transformed the car into a spirited driver.

Now if none of the above applies to you, then a V6 or V8 base (GS) or LS model will work just fine for you. They're known for their comfortable yet snappy ride, decent handling, and luxurious appointments. Be aware that the 1983-86 GS and LS Cougars came with a softer 20:1 steering rack. This is a low-effort rack that's not great for performance but does help considerably if you have arm or wrist problems, such as arthritis or carpal tunnel syndrome. All 1987-88 Cougar models received the higher-effort 15:1 steering rack. The racks do interchange if you're thinking about doing that.

3) Inspect the car's body for rust and paint damage.

Rust is a huge problem with Cougars, particularly in the snow-belt areas (upper Midwest, Northeast, Canada) because of the heavy use of salt on the roads during wintertime. Similarly, cars on the East and West coasts suffer the same type of corrosion from sea salt spray in the air. The good news is that the metal used on the Cougar is pretty thick. The bad news is, rust doesn't care about that at all. And when it all comes down to it, rust is going to be your number one enemy as long as you own a Cougar. Generally all sheetmetal used in all 1980's vehicles--Ford and its competitors alike--was not that great, and this has a lot to do with the rust problem. Still, I see lots of low-to-no rust vehicles in the Northeast all the time. The trick is in routine washing maintenance, and whether or not the car will be in a garage on a regular basis.

Be sure to inspect for rust in these areas:

• Under the doors (inside)
• Inside the door jambs
• Underneath the rocker panel
• Underneath the wheel well lips
• Behind the rear wheel wells, below the molding
• Underneath the trunklid lip

You will more than likely find some rust spots---for a 15+ year-old car, that's expected. Surface bubbles are good if you plan on taking care of them right away. But beware of the hole that lurks underneath the surface bubble! These holes are notorious for showing up behind the rear wheels and between the door and the rear wheels. Holes cannot easily be patched and usually require welding and lots of bodywork. Of all areas on the car, the bottoms of the doors are most succeptible to rust. If the rust has not eaten into the door frame, and is just on the outer skin, then it's considered a good door. Lower door skin patches can easily be installed if you have just surface rust. Once the frame is rotted, it's time for a new door. Likewise for the trunklid lip. Most rust will be obvious but you must inspect the areas above in order to make a solid purchase.

Starting in the early 1980's Ford Motor Company began using the then-new basecoat/clearcoat paint system, which is now the industry standard. Cars with the base/clear paint generally hold up better in time than those with enamel finishes. There were only a few base/clear colors offered for each model year, though, and most of those colors were metallics. It is rare indeed to find a Cougar with matching, coherent paint that isn't oxidized. If you happen to find one like that, put it at the very top of your buying list. You'll save hundreds, even thousands, of dollars on a paint job. The charcoal grey color was succeptible to peeling, so be aware of that.

4) Check for signs of an accident.

There are a few places on Fox Cougars that are telltale signs of an accident. First and foremost, open the hood and look immediately to the sides. There is an air inlet hole on each side of the engine compartment, just before the strut tower. On some cars, such as the 1983-85 5.0 engine, that hole was occupied by an air inlet duct. Beginning in 1986, however, the air cleaner assembly had a new home (due to the new fuel injection system) and that hole was no longer used, so it was capped off. When any kind of front end or side damage occurs to these cars, this front end crumple zone, which is meant to absorb any impacts, will distort badly. If the metal there is not totally straight, then the car has definitely had a wreck.

ABOVE: This is an unwrecked Cougar (air cleaner box removed for photo). The 1986-88 5.0 cars should have a plastic block-off plate as well, as shown here. Notice the smoothness and uniformity of the metal surrounding the black plug.

ABOVE: This Cougar was definitely wrecked. Notice the twisted shape of the hole, and the absence of the plastic block-off plate.

Another sly trick is really simple: take the cap off the base of the antenna. You'll need a Philips screwdriver to remove the antenna on non-power units; unscrew the cap and lift for power antennas. If you see a different color under there, then that's a replacement fender. Now this is not a guarantee of damage since the panel could have been replaced due to rust. But if you have suspicions about a wreck, this could further reinforce your sentiment. When hastily replacing body panels, a lot of people will tape off and paint around the antenna rather than remove it; that's why this trick works so well. Overspray on windows and window trim can at least indicate new paint, if not a repair.

Check the rocker panels, under the doors. A side impact will dent or crinkle up the rocker panel. While usually more cosmetic than structural, this could indicate a pretty hard hit. Look up under the bumpers at the metal core supports. If you see anything but a straight reinforcement, there has been at least a bumper bash in this Cat's past, if not more. On the interior, look under the seats really well for broken pieces of glass. One trick place to look in particular is under the back seat--that's not usually a place where people think to clean really well after damage. Other signs are non-uniform gaps between body panels, a leaky trunk, and excessive creaking when the car is driven.

Now the physical evidence of a wreck does not always tell the entire story. It is possible that a simple low speed front collision can bend up the crumple zone and thereby simulate a more severe hit. Again, just because a front fender has been replaced does not mean that it was wrecked. With the major rust problems that are associated with these cars, that's probably a more likely explanation. When in doubt, it's wise to seek a professional body shop's opinion.

5) Check things out under the hood, then go for a drive.

Once you've visually inspected the car, you'll want to check all the engine components before you drive it. Keep these individual things in mind while inspecting and driving:

COOLING SYSTEM
Most of the time, the cooling systems in Fox Cougars work pretty well. Notorious for going bad is the aluminum water pump on 3.8 and 5.0 cars; they've been known to fail under 50,000 miles. All radiators are 2-row from the factory and are cooled with with mechanical fan clutches except for the 1984-86 XR7's, which had electric fans. If any hose ends or middles are swelled, cracked, or soft to the touch, it's ready to burst and probably needs replacement very soon. Coolant should be green and rust-free; brownish fluid indicates excessive rust inside the radiator, and possibly a few clogged rows. If the car is equipped with a temperature gauge, be sure to notice how long it takes to reach normal operating temperature. Normal length of time, depending upon weather and barometric conditions, is around 5-10 minutes. Any longer or shorter indicates a problem inside the cooling system, whether a bad thermostat, clogged radiator, bad fan clutch, or perhaps a coolant leak. Thermostats are generally a pain to change in the 3.8 and 5.0 cars. Finally, the heater cores in 1985-88 cars are a farily big chore to change; the dashboard must be partially removed in order to get to it. Be sure to find out if the previous owner had the heater core replaced.

POWER STEERING SYSTEM
The power steering system in Fox Cougars is infamous for its leaks. In fact, if you find a Fox car that doesn't leak power steering fluid, it's a miracle. Usually the leaks occur either at the junction on the steering rack, or at the coupling right on the power steering pump housing. This subsequently is considered "normal" for these cars. Any sloppiness in steering, or loud noises when the steering wheel is turned to the extreme ends, indicates a bad steering rack or bad tie rods. Outer tie rods are not very expensive but inner tie rods can cost almost as much as a replacement rack. Be sure to inspect for grease fittings on the tie rods and ball joints. From the factory the Cougar had none; the presence of grease fittings indicate that the parts have been replaced.

SUSPENSION/TIRES
On the 1983-86 Cougar the rear springs have a tendency to sag but are fairly easy to replace. The 1987-88 cars had better rear springs and keep the car up to normal heights. Front springs need to be compressed in order to be removed, which should be left to a professional. Front springs, unless broken, are generally fine for 130,000 miles or more. The front A-arms need only occasional lubrication. Rear lower control arms should both be straight; if they're bending inward, the car was either hit or abused with too much hot-rodding. The rear axle likes to twist up lower control arms like a pretzel. Torque boxes should likewise be crack and rust free. Upper control arms do not go bad unless abused as well. About the only other concern with the suspension would be the bushings. Over time, all bushings crack, and this means a sloppier feel and excessive body roll. While usually not a dangerous situation, this can lead to loss of control in emergency swerving or braking in extreme cases. Most of the time the bushings will wear very normally and can all be replaced with either stock rubber or the recommended urethane in most locations. A squeak from the front end could indicate a broken spring, damaged or missing bushing, or a bad ball joint. A good way to test for a bad ball joint is exiting the car: when you climb out with the car shut off and hear a squeak, that's probably the culprit. They can be changed on the car using special tools. As for tires, most Cougars had 14" tires from the factory; some had 15". Be sure to check the treads for wear.

SHOCKS/STRUTS
These are normal-wearing items. Rear shocks are very cheap. Struts are a little pricey, but at least the front spring does not need compressed in order to remove the it. Some cars (1984-88 XR7's, for example) have an additional set of horizontal axle dampeners (also known as quad shocks) mounted from the rear axle to the rear subframe rail. These shocks help control the behavior of the live rear axle, and are not under severe pressure. They last about twice as long as the normal rear shocks. In general, you can use 1983-86 struts in 1987-88 cars and vice-versa. There was a slight change in the dampening for 1987 but that does not affect performance.

EXHAUST
The exhaust systems on Cougars wear normally. No Cougars had factory stainless steel exhaust systems, so prepare to replace at least part of the system every 2-3 years unless you spend extra for aluminized pipe. The entire system on all Cougars is pretty straightforward and is of traditional rear-drive car layout. Some cars have a single catalytic converter; others have two or three, depending upon the engine and model year. Only 1988 5.0 cars had factory dual exhaust. A custom system may be the same price or cheaper than a comparable normal exhaust system (check around for prices where you live). Oxygen (O2) sensors last for around 75,000 miles, after which the car's fuel economy will gradually get worse. Long the forgotten part of the exhaust system, they're found in the stock exhaust manifolds. Some cars have only one on the driver's side, while most have a sensor on each side. They are relatively expensive to replace, as far as sensors go, but for cleaner emissions and better gas mileage they're required for optimum air/fuel mixture in computer-controlled cars. When removed the tip of the O2 sensor should be a greyish-white color, with perhaps a tinge of brown. A black tip indicates a very rich condition.

BRAKES
The braking systems used in the 1983-88 Cougars are fairly reliable. All Cougars from 1983-88 had 10" front vented rotors. Most Cougars had 9" rear drums; XR7's and cars with the optional towing package had 10" drums. Replacement brake components are affordable and easily found. Some people have noted a low pedal condition, which is fairly typical of the cars. If you are looking at a 1985 Cougar, be aware that there was a Ford recall on the brake master cylinder; make sure that it has been replaced.

TRANSMISSION
Known for their sub-par performance, Ford transmissions are notorious for simply giving out with no advance warning. That's why it's so important to check the transmission fluid in the prospective car. The fluid should be pink and smell like oil. If there is a burnt smell, it's foaming, or is brown to black in color, that's a sure sign of internal transmission failure. Most Ford owners do not think to have their transmission fluid and filter changed on a regular basis, so don't be surprised if you find some discolored fluid. Slightly brownish or burnt-smelling fluid is generally acceptable. Ford transmissions like to quit at roughly 100,000-130,000 miles. Rebuilds, depending upon where you live, can range from $300-1000+ U.S. The C3, C5, and AOD transmissions are generally of the same family---metric---and are costly at rebuild time. On test driving be sure that the shifts are not too sloppy. When the car is put into reverse, pay close attention to the time between shifting and engagement. It should be pretty quick; otherwise, the flexplate may be cracked. On AOD cars, with the car in overdrive, punch the gas pedal. The car should shift quickly into passing gear. If you give the car about 3/4 pedal in OD, you should notice the car gaining speed; if it doesn't seem to want to go, then the OD band is probably shot, indicating a rebuild in the near future. For those rare Cats with the T-5 5-speed ('84-'86 XR7's), be sure the shifter works smoothly. Also, find out when and if the clutch and pressure plate was last serviced.

BELTS
Early Cougars (1983-85 in general) had multiple-belt systems: one for the air conditioning pump, and one or two more for the other pumps and the crank pulley. Sometimes owners will only replace the belt that's easiest to reach, thereby neglecting the others behind it (most notably the a/c belt). Beginning around 1986 Ford began using the single-belt serpentine system. While more expensive (around $25 U.S.), the serpentine belt is a more efficient and more easily replaced piece. Belts are good for 50-70,000 miles. Check for cracks, glazing, or rips in the belt before you drive the car.

AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM
Chances are the air conditioning system on a used Cougar will probably not be working. This is usually due to a rubber O-ring failure somewhere in the system: where the lines attach to the compressor, the coupling at the condensor, and even the high side/low side charging nipples. A leak allows the refrigerant to vent out and will subsequently lead to a little more drag on the defroster. Having a working a/c system is pretty important, especially if you live in a state with a very warm climate or the car has the optional electronic climate control system. Since the old R-12 freon is no longer produced, you can use R-12 substitutes in your existing system with no problems. In the long run you may want to plan on converting the car over to the new R-134a system. Retrofit kits are available nationwide at good parts stores for around $30 U.S. Since R-12 and R-134a oils do not mix, use a universal refrigerant oil that's compatible with both systems. R-134a will allow you to work on your own a/c system again, but if you're so inclined, a qualified mechanic can easily change the car over for you. Components of the Cougar's a/c system can sometimes be interchanged with Mustang parts, depending on the year and engine.

ENGINE
Last and certainly not least, the engine should idle smoothly and should start on the first crank. Be sure to find out when the last tune-up was, and if the fuel filter was replaced at that time. Sometimes the fuel filter is included in a tune-up, sometimes not---it's up to you to find out. Any smoke from the tailpipe indicates a leakage problem inside the motor, whether air, fuel, coolant, or carbon build-up. A ticking noise indicates a bad lifter or sticky valve. The 3.8 and 5.0 engines have a normal "dieseling" sound to them--it's usually nothing to worry about. Severe pinging can indicate the wrong timing, a bad timing chain, or possibly a bad camshaft. The 1986-88 5.0 engine had undersized aluminum pistons that sometimes allowed for a pronounced dieseling sound on cold startup; this will not harm the engine. An oil light or abnormally low pressure could mean that the oil pump is failing; a minimum of $150 U.S. is typical for this job. It is common for 1985-88 5.0 cars to consume oil, usually about 1 quart between oil changes. This was due to faulty piston rings from the factory.

Acceleration should be fairly snappy with minimal pedal effort. If you feel that the pedal requires more force than usual upon accelerating, then there could be a bad throttle position sensor, carbon build-up in the throttle body, clogged converter, or (more commonly in these cars) a stretched accelerator cable. Any hesitation in accelerating usually means an expensive fix (computer module, internal engine component failure, clogged fuel injectors, sticking valves, timing chain, bad sensor, emissions component, etc.). If any aspect of your test drive doesn't feel right, that usually means your gut instinct is telling you about something.

5) Be aware of current prices before you buy.

Websites such as Kelley's Blue Book and NADA have really helped with determining values for cars, and the information is available right at your fingertips. But don't forget AutoTrader.com---it's the largest nationwide site for selling cars, and you will find it to be a great help with pricing as well. Currently the Cougar has hit the very bottom of its value; with some cars now 20 years old, that's expected. Some models, like the XR7's, modified cars, anniversary models and special edition cars, will hold more value. Consider the car's overall condition before you commit to a price.

Final Word

It's hoped that you've learned something valuable from this section. Feel free to use this entire site as an official reference for the Cougar, whether you end up buying one or not. You can always contact us with specific concerns at any time. Best of luck to you!

[ top ]