All 1983-88 Cougars (and most Thunderbirds) had the 10" front rotors from the factory. They're pretty dependable, cheap to keep up, and wear very well. But they were barely adequate to stop the cars. For their weight, the cars should have had at least 11" front rotors. Fortunately you can upgrade to 11" front brakes with very little effort. All you will need to change are the spindles, calipers, brake lines, rotors, wheel bearings, and the brake pads.

Words of caution here: only cars with 15" rims and bigger can use this conversion, since they need to clear the calipers. And you will need to get a bigger mini-spare tire from a Turbo Coupe or Mustang V8. If you've got a full size 15" spare, you're all set.

You will need the following parts from a 1987-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe or 1987-93 Mustang V8, except where noted:

Spindles
You can use spindles from either the 1987-93 V8 Ford Mustang or a 1987-88 Turbo Coupe; they're both the same parts. You can get them used at a salvage yard or online. The 1984-92 Lincoln Mark VII spindle will fit but requires modification of the ball joint--avoid it if possible.

Calipers
You will need brand new calipers for this conversion; don't skimp and try to use junkyard pieces. They're best for using for a core when you get new ones. Remanufactured calipers are fairly inexpensive and cost-efficient. Again you can use calipers from a 1987-88 Turbo Coupe or 1987-93 Mustang V8. The Mark VII is a much heavier car than a Mustang or TC, with the same size front brakes. As a result, the piston in the caliper for a Mark VII is bigger (73mm) vs. the Mustang/TC piston. This provides better stopping power, while still using the same caliper, dimensionally.

Brake Pads
Whichever caliper style you choose you must be sure to get matching pads. You cannot use TC/Mustang pads with a Mark VII caliper, and vice versa. Factory pads were semi-metallic and that's the least you should get (not organic!). Or you can use Performance Friction, sold at Auto Zone and other parts stores. They work awesome and last a really long time.

Brake Lines
The brake lines going to each caliper will need to be changed. If you want a stock part, Mustang lines work the best here, although the TC and Mark VII lines are probably the same thing. Compared to your old rubber lines, the new ones are about half rubber, half metal. This ensures better fluid pressure going to the caliper and also increases brake pedal feel. If you're really wanting a harder pedal feel for not much more money, then you can also use street-legal stainless steel brake lines meant for a Mustang V8 (Russell is the common brand). Don't forget to get new brake (a.k.a. "banjo") bolts and washers to attach the lines to the calipers.

You will also find that you'll need some adapters to get the new lines to attach to your car's permanent brake hard lines. This junction is in the strut tower area. Most of the time a 1/4"-to-3/16" adapter is needed, but you will need to double check this, as some years and models may have different sized brake lines. It's recommended that you use a steel adapter rather than a brass adapter, as brass has a tendency to leak. Adapters can be found at good parts stores including NAPA.

Rotors
Obviously you're going to need some new rotors. Only rotors from a Mustang V8 or Turbo Coupe will work for 4-lug wheels, since the Mark VII uses 5-lug. DO NOT use original Ford 11" rotors, no matter how good of shape you may happen to find them. The factory rotors were very thin and needed replaced quicker than normal. Always a good idea to use new rotors anyway. Try to get a quality brand also. Prices range from roughly $45 US each on up, depending upon where you shop. The Turbo Coupe rotor should have the exciter ring on the inside of the hub, and the Mustang will not. There may be a price difference between them so shop wisely.

Wheel Bearings
It's necessary to get new inside wheel bearings (the ones that go in the back side of each rotor), so it's a good idea to get new outside bearings as well. If you have just bought new outside bearings for the 10" rotors, you can reuse them on the 11" rotors if you'd like. But, as I like to say, new bearings are cheap insurance. Be sure to get new seals also.

Installation of the new components is pretty straightforward, and usually you won't run into any problems. The brake line junction might be a fun one for you if the lines are rusted but otherwise it's pretty easy. Once all is assembled, you'll need to refill your master cylinder with fluid and bleed the front brakes. When you're all done, don't forget that you'll need to get an alignment ASAP.

TROUBLESHOOTING
One area of concern that people have mentioned seems to be the stock master cylinder. From the factory between 1983-88 there are two types. From 1983-86, there is the traditional cast-iron type. This has 2 separate reservoirs (front and rear) for the fluid, and two lines coming out of it (one for the front, one for the back). It also has a 7/8" bore. Beginning in 1987, most Ford vehicles switched to the aluminum type. Only one single plastic reservoir was needed, and brake pedal feel was increased due to its larger 1" bore. But with this master cylinder, three lines come out (one for the front right, one for the front left, one for the rear). Obviously you cannot easily interchange the two types (although we understand that there is a three-to-two line adapter kit available).

Now either type should work just fine with the 11" brake upgrade. However, after the conversion, if you still believe the pedal feels low then you can simply opt for a new master cylinder. It might just be that your stock master cylinder is just old and tired.

If you're thinking of doing some upgrading here, that's possible. For the 1983-86 cast iron type, a 1984-86 Crown Victoria m/c works great, with its large 1 1/8" bore. For the aluminum 1987-88 m/c you can use a 1994-95 Mustang type without ABS brakes.

If the brakes still don't feel right, you can get a bigger brake booster (1994-95 Cobra is recommended), or stainless steel front brake lines (there are numerous aftermarket street-legal versions made for the Mustang that will work perfectly), or a combination of both. Whatever you do, DO NOT attempt to lengthen the pushrod going into the master cylinder! This will cause your brakes to totally lock up and you could possibly lose control of the vehicle. One of the above suggestions should solve your low pedal problem just fine.

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