Again with the theme of front end modification, you're probably wanting to ditch the stock lighting setup, or at least modify it. Here's all the info you'll ever need on doing just that.

HEADLIGHTS

1983-86
The stock quad halogen setup really works well in these cars, with lateral vision that is good despite the sunken headlamp configuration. Still, you may be looking for more power or a different look.

	This is an H4 conversion setup. The H4 headlight is relatively new for the U.S., coming onto the scene within the last few years, although they have been available in Europe since the 1980's. The idea is that they combine the size and shape of traditional 4"x6" sealed beam headlamps, only with a replaceable bulb. Standard halogen bulbs are available, as well as hyper-white and xenon-imitation bulbs. And unlike sealed beams, the H4 lamp will continue to function even if the lens is cracked or shattered because there is no high-pressure gas inside. But the real boon to H4's is their light pattern: it works almost like a fog lamp, with excellent side-to-side lighting and the virtual elimination of a bright spot for the low beams. This is truly a blessing for those that want to upgrade to something more modern. JC Whitney is generally the cheapest place we've ever found for H4's, with single units starting at around $20 US each. We've also found them on eBay for around the same price. Some versions are street legal (such as Hella), while some are intended for off-road use only (such as Eagle Eye), so be sure to check first. Legality with H4's is a delicate situation.
	A few things to note about H4's: there is a wiring problem with them. H4's work off a totally different setup as far as wiring configurations (bottom left). Fortunately, most H4 kits will come with a conversion harness that plugs right into your own stock harness, so be sure that you get this with yours. Better yet, if you can, buy a separate harness like the APC one shown here. It's the ultimate in wiring security because it lets you run higher wattage bulbs (don't even try it with stock wiring!) and it also pulls its power directly from the battery, ensuring a full 12v at each lamp. As far as the bulbs, the standard 60/55w bulb will probably be too dim. The 100/80w are good, or there's even a 130/90w bulb available. And if you are going to use H4's for your high beams (inner lights), you will need to bend the middle tab down on the bulbs.
	Similar are the H4 crystal headlamps. These have a totally clear lens with a patterned internal reflector. Good crystal H4's come with a bulb cover to keep from blinding drivers' eyes in oncoming traffic. Again, check the legality in your area first. These lights have popped up all over eBay so shop around for the best deal.

1987-88
As you know, your headlamps are pretty unique to the car (well, the 1988-94 Lincoln Continental had them too, but that's a technical issue). So there is no swapping of Mustang headlamps into your car, I'm afraid. Best you can do is change bulbs.

Your stock 9004 bulbs can be replaced by any number of aftermarket bulbs, including hyper-blue, hyper-white and imitation xenon blue. Your local parts store probably has quite a few types on the shelves as you read this. Generally, the better bulbs will be more expensive. You may end up spending $50 or so to change your bulbs, so be warned. And there is no guarantee that the hotter bulbs won't melt your headlamp housings. Use at your own risk.

MISC. HEADLAMPS

You might be tempted to buy a full xenon/HID conversion kit for your headlamps. Factory cars that have true HID lamps include the 1997-98 Mark VIII, most newer Mercedes-Benz cars and trucks, most BMW's, the Dodge Viper, the Acura TL, and so on. You know this by their brilliant bluish-white light that really stands out in a crowd. In theory, xenon bulbs will never burn out and will only need replaced if they're smashed or damaged. But here's the deal: true xenon/HID setups are amazingly complex and require unique wiring that is much better than what came in your car. The way the system works is that a high-voltage ballast ignites each xenon-filled bulb when the headlights are switched on. The effect is similar to sodium vapor lights used in gymnasiums: initially the lights are dim but rapidly get brighter. Each ballast throws off roughly 20,000 volts, which is enough to give you a nasty shock and possibly do some damage to your body. In other words, this isn't something you play around with. If you convert your 1983-86 car to H4's, or have a stock 1987-88 configuration, then you can use an HID conversion kit, which comes with everything you need. Just be prepared to shell out around $400-800 or more for the kit. They are available on eBay or through JC Whitney.

SIDE MARKERS

1983-86
I really can't tell you why Ford gave us these huge yellow monstrosities for side markers. Yeah, you can see them from a mile away, but come on...they stick out way too much. Well, you don't have much of a choice other than painting them. To the best of my knowledge, nobody makes clear side markers for any 1983-88 Cougar, and probably never will because of their age.

For this custom side marker, it was simply done by painting over a custom Cougar logo and clearcoating it. The trick is to not layer the basecoat on too thick if you want some light to shine through the painted part (obviously the amber light is going to come out of the logo just fine). Check the opacity of the paint by shining a flashlight inside the marker as you paint. You should find that 2-3 thin coats are about what you'll need for lighter colors, and 1-2 coats for darker colors.

1987-88
Again, there are no aftermarket clear markers for these cars. Still, they are semi-clear from the factory which is a good thing, because you can make your own clears if you're careful enough.

Start by removing the marker assembly. Now, using a Dremel or similar cutting tool, hack apart your perfectly good stock marker, then remove the amber reflector from inside. Then seal the whole thing up with copious amounts of silicone, and there you have a custom factory-style side marker. Simple, easy, and best of all, free of charge. If you don't ruin your marker in the process, that is.

< Back To Modifying Main

[ top ]