If you're not one of the lucky ones that had a factory console in your 1985-88 Cougar, don't sweat it. This is one of the easiest installs you can do to your interior. However, you do have some challenges ahead of you. Finding a console is getting to be tougher because these cars are getting to be old. The salvage yards are getting picked clean of hot-item parts like consoles, and yards are crushing older cars at a much higher rate due to the price of scrap metal soaring recently. Plus people can be ignorant and totally break the console parts while trying to get to something else.

Still, that shouldn't deter you from wanting to put one in. If you're shopping for one, you can get the donor console and all related parts (panels, metal brackets, etc.) from these cars:

• 1985-88 XR7 (all)
• 1985-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (all)
• 1987-88 Thunderbird Sport V8 (all)
• Optioned base and LS Cougars
• Optioned base and LX Thunderbirds

While you can technically use a 1983-84 console, it doesn't quite line up at the dashboard perfectly, although it could be made to work with some trimming. No other Fox chassis console is a direct fit in our cars. Seems that just like floor shifters, Ford made sure that each Fox car had its own console.

Here is a complete shopping list of all parts needed:

• Console itself
• Back metal support bracket
• Middle metal support bracket
• Dash metal support bracket
• Lighter panel
• Storage tray (see below)
• Switch panel
• Console liner
• Console lid and hinge
• Console wiring (*NOTE: this should be attached to the underside of the console)
• Wiring for the light (green/yellow and black wires)
• Radio panel bezel for a console car
• All related screws and bolts

Not only is finding a console sometimes a hassle, but finding one in the color you need can be even worse. Good news is, it can easily be painted using interior spray paint (see here for more details).

Then there's the problem of the console lid. It's not a secret about these cars that the latches on the lid break easily (and likewise, the console liner latch area). That's what happens when people just let the lid slam shut, instead of gently pushing the lid down, or better yet, pushing the button on the latch in while closing then letting go. There are no more replacement parts for the latch or liner either. So finding a good latch and liner is a challenge; you may need to get them from several different cars to mix-and-match yourself all the good parts.

	Also, you need to be aware that there were two different style lids. The earlier one (1985-86 for sure, sometimes later) is taller and padded, usually colored but sometimes dark grey. It directly interchanges with 1984 cars too (1983 lids had their own part number and may not bolt up to later hinges). These lids came in a wide variety of colors and were vinyl. The later lid (1986?-88) is usually charcoal grey in color and is much flatter. There is no padding on it, and it's covered in leather. The reason we're being general on the model years is because Ford seemed to have no rhyme or reason in using either lid. Some people have reported the earlier lid in brand-new 1987 cars, while others have said their lid was flat on their '85. Basically it's potluck as to which one you'll find. Be aware that the latch parts do not interchange between the two styles.
	Another area of concern is the storage tray. For all cars without a floor shifter, the area between the switch panel and the console had a storage tray with a rubber liner. This is great for putting your drink, or your CD/MP3 player, or your change. Some cars had a separator in the middle (1983-84, left bottom), while others had a completely flat open area (1985-88, left top). If you have the column shifter and are planning on keeping your car that way, you'll need a storage tray for your console. Floor shifters had their own unique cover (different for automatic and manual cars).

One important part to find is the correct console switch panel. This is where your factory window, seat and mirror switches will go. Bad news is, there were about 8 different configurations of these panels between 1985-88. Good news is, the most popular configuration (power mirror, power windows, and power driver's seat switch) is going to be easier to find. Plus you can easily make your own switch if need be, out of thin aluminum. But with any luck you'll find the one you need without too much hassle.

Last, you will have to figure out what you want to do with your seats. Sometimes people upgrade to bucket seats at the same time as the console install, and that makes things a lot easier. But if you really like your current seats, you have two options:

1. You can use a Sawz-All and cut off the factory consolette from the driver's seat. Yes, the consolette is welded onto the driver's seat frame. Cutting it off will make sort of a bucket seat for you. You'll have to sew the material together where the consolette was. It's not a perfect solution but it works fine, and you'll most likely never see it anyway. Of course, you can always have an upholstery shop sew in a new piece if you wish.

2. You can find a similar seat bottom and transfer your material over. Since all Mustangs had consoles, I've found that 4-cylinder Mustang LX seats are perfect donors. Their seat bottoms are the same dimensions as our consolette seats. Simply remove the seat bottom (frame and material) from the Mustang seat and yours, swap material, and replace. No cutting of anything is necessary. You will still have the same material imperfection as mentioned above, so you'll have to do some sewing. Of course, if the Mustang seat fabric is a different color than that used in your car, it's not going to look all that great, so shop wisely.

Once you have all your parts, here's how to install them.

	Begin by removing the consolette switch panel. Unscrew all of your switches from the underside, and save the screws---you'll reuse them later.
	It also helps immensely to remove the seats now. The factory used a combination of bolts and nuts to hold the seats down. You will use 13mm, 15mm and 18mm sockets to remove them.
	Before you go yanking the seat out without discretion, be aware that you have to disconnect all harnesses under the power seat. In particular, this brown one (refer to arrow) is the power seat harness. If you have power lumbar or power recline, those will have harnesses too.
	This is what the car should now look like. You can also remove the radio trim panel at this point.
	Next is the removal of the factory sliding ash tray. Yes, you'll be losing it in favor of a fixed lighter panel and separate ash tray on the console. That's the price you pay for having a console. But you'll get used to it very quickly. Pop out the ash tray and using a screwdriver, push down on the retaining tab as shown here.
	The ash tray simply slides all the way out of its housing. There are 4 ball bearings that might also pop out at this point. You will need to reach under and disconnect the wiring for the lighter.
	Next, take out the ash tray retainer housing by removing these screws. The housing will then completely slide out.
	Time for a test fit of the console. Place the console in the approximate area and let it sit for a moment.
	Pay particular attention to the alignment of the console to the dash. The tips of the console should be flush with the back edge of the dash, as shown here. From here on in, it's got to be this way or your alignment will be way off.
	Install the dash-to-console metal bracket. It will serve as an alignment gauge from here on in.
	Next up is cutting the carpeting...but you have to know where to cut first. Bolt the rear metal support bracket to the console as shown. This isn't permanent; you're just going to use it to mark the carpeting for the cut.
	Do the same for the middle metal support bracket. The arrow shows the area where the cut will be made. Now simply trace around the brackets (all four sides) with a permanent marker or grease pencil. Trace as close to the brackets as possible. If your carpeting is dark colored then you might have to get creative.
	Once the marks are made...
	...remove the console and make the cuts. Be aware that it's okay to miss on the cut front-to-back. But side-to-side, if you take too much carpeting out, it will show when the console is in. Precision is very important here.
	WARNING: Be EXTREMELY careful on the front cut. There is a main wiring harness directly underneath the carpeting in this area. Use scissors or pull the carpeting up before making this cut.
	This is what the floor should look like when you're all through cutting. The left side of the picture faces the front of the car.
	Put the console in place again, with the brackets still attached. The rear bracket will have no interference. Up in the middle, though, you will have to make sure all the wiring is out of the way. There should be a hole in the floorpan's raised section that will accept the tang from the bracket (see arrow). This lets you know you're in the right place.
	Now you get to attach the brackets to the floor. Using a 1/8" (or slightly smaller) drill bit, drill out holes in the floorpan at the spots indicated. Then screw the brackets to the floor. When this is done, remove the screws at the top of the brackets (on the console), but leave the console in place.
	All the hard work is now pretty much done. You can begin assembly by attaching the console wiring harness to the factory harness coming through the carpeting. Also, you can drop the console liner in and wire the light switch to the bulb, and place the bulb inside the holder on the liner. Then bolt the lid's hinge to the console; note that the holes go through the rear support bracket. When done, put the screws in the console liner (and don't forget the three screws in the bottom).
	Then you can attach your switches to the console switch panel. Bolt the top of the middle support bracket to the console, then fully attach the switch panel to the console. You should be able to close the console lid fully at this point. Note also how rock-solid the console is with the brackets attached. Now it's just a matter of the small details (storage tray, lighter panel, radio panel, seat reinstallation, etc.) and before you know it, you're all finished. Enjoy the new console!

< Back To Modifying Main

[ top ]