You've probably seen people move their car's battery to the trunk before, perhaps at car shows. There are so many compelling reasons to do so, like the security; some like the weight transfer; some need it for extra power in the stereo system; some need it for racing; some just like to be different. Whatever your reason, relocating the battery to the trunk gives you a little extra cool factor, and clearly shows that you went the extra step in modifying the car.

Keep in mind that there are metal kits and plastic kits. They fit most standard batteries, including our group numbers. Both do essentially the same job, but if you're going to race your car, you have to know what is legal for your particular vehicle. In general, coupes with a trunk (like the Cougar) need metal boxes, while hatchbacks (like a Fox Mustang GT) need plastic boxes. Be sure to check your rule book for the correct acceptable type of battery box. For the street, a plastic box will work fine. But if you want to spend the extra money to get something nicer, or just want the 'wow' factor, the metal box is perfect.

This aluminum battery relocation kit is from Summit Racing and is very well constructed. It comes with everything needed to move the battery: the box, all bolts and washers, grommets, battery hold-down bracket, .00-gauge cable, and terminals. A complete kit like this is the way to go.

Perhaps the most puzzling question is, "Where do I run the cable?" Essentially the high-grade double-aught cable will hook to your starter solenoid under the hood, travel the entire length of the car, and end at the battery box in the trunk. Some people run the line underneath the car, some run it inside the car. We tend to believe that it's safer inside the car, and easier to run that way. But it's your call. If you do run the cable underneath be sure to secure it to the body with rubber-insulated clamps (usually provided with the kit). You will need to drill a hole in the trunk pan and run the cable up through it. Be sure to use the provided grommet for the hole.

When installing the box, keep in mind the general location in which you'll be mounting it. Don't forget that you're putting 60 lbs.+ of extra weight in the trunk...you need this box to be as secure as possible. A good place to mount the box is in the well, but beware: the well is directly over the gas tank! Be extremely careful before drilling any holes. Also, you want the battery to be accessible in case you need to get to it quickly, and also for jump-starting or charging. So weigh your options carefully before making any holes in the trunk pan.

You may also want to consider a battery kill switch. You can put the switch anywhere in close proximity to the box, or sometimes on the box itself. If you ever have any battery spill or (heaven forbid) explosion/fire, the kill switch will be a lifesaver, literally. It's also convenient when you need to cut the power in the car for whatever reason, such as when the doors are open because you're installing a stereo system, or when you're storing the car for winter. In racing, the battery kill switch is hooked to a lever that must be on the outside of the car. That means drilling a hole in the taillight or around the license plate for the lever, and clearly marking the lever as a battery kill. Be sure to check the rule book.

Probably the nicest thing about having the battery in the trunk is that you're close to the typical trunk-mounted stereo system, so you don't have to run long cables up through the firewall anymore. Power distribution blocks used in stereo systems are a great way to hook up extra things like lights, and having the battery back there is killer. Everything is in one location---nice, simple, efficient. The only real drawback to having the battery box in the trunk (aside from giving up a little trunk room) is that you lose convenience when you have to jump start your car. There are remote jumper terminals that you can buy for this specific purpose. In any case, be sure to get some extra-long jumper cables!

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